Every now and then, you come across places where you breathe differently. Where the wind blows not only through your hair, but also through your head. The Danish Wadden Islands are such places for me. Close by, yet it feels like stepping into a completely different world. As soon as I'm there, the hustle and bustle of everyday life slips away. It's the freedom, the endless views, the salty air. Of all the islands, Fanø has stolen my heart. Perhaps because it's a little quieter, less touristy. Perhaps also because the history is still so palpable, in the houses, the streets, and the stories the sea seems to whisper.
Renting a bike and exploring the island with the wind in your hair and the sea in sight – that’s Rømø. Whether you want to watch kites dance in the sky, go land sailing or kitesurfing, this island invites you to move and breathe freely.
For a day trip, Rømø is only about 45 minutes away. Fanø takes a bit longer, but including the ferry ride, you’ll be there in around two hours. And it’s worth every minute.
Together with Tamara from Travelenmore, I visited both islands. Rømø came first. We rented bikes from Cykeludlejning Rømø and explored the island at our own pace. We cycled through heath-covered landscapes, over dunes and quiet trails, stopping at Rømø’s highest point, Spidsbjerg, to take in the view over the island and the sea. Rømø is mostly flat, so biking here is easy and relaxed
At the wide Sønderstrand, we watched the land surfers glide across the sand on wheeled surfboards. Later, we visited Lakolk Beach, the most popular beach on the island, where you can drive your car right onto the sand. On warm summer days, it’s a lively scene with cars, tents, barbecues and families enjoying long days by the sea.
We had lunch at Café Fru Dax on the promenade, but there are plenty of lovely cafés and restaurants all over the island.
What else to do on Rømø?
Besides the annual Motor Festival and Kite Festival, there’s plenty to explore every day: pony riding at the Pony Farm, visiting the Tønnisgård Nature Centre, discovering the World War II bunkers near Tvismark, or exploring the old Commander’s Farm from 1746, now a museum from the island’s whaling era.
And than there's Fanø.
From Esbjerg, the ferry takes just twelve minutes – no reservation needed. Fanø feels smaller, cosier, more intimate. I once read that getting lost here isn’t a problem, and it’s true. Once you arrive, time seems to slow down.
The narrow streets with their thatched houses invite you to wander. You stroll from a small museum to a café, from a boutique to the old windmill, and perhaps end the day at the beach, where seals sometimes rest in the sun.
Look out for the little ceramic dogs in the windows. Long ago, when the men were at sea, the dogs stood back-to-back. When the men returned home, they faced each other. The meaning behind it is yours to imagine.
If you wish to stay longer, you’ll find plenty of charming places to stay on both islands. Tamara from www.travelenmore.nl can help you find the right accommodation.
Whether you choose spacious Rømø or cosy Fanø, both islands offer the Danish coast at its best. Calm, authentic, and full of small moments of hygge.